- Thoughts on Turn Out Time:
However, one question that is often overlooked is that of appropriate turnout facilities for our equine friends. As humans, used to operating in small spaces, such as automobiles, offices, and restaurants, we so easily forget that horses, like children, need to run. And while a horse may run buck and play in his turnout, the benefits of allowing the horse some time out during the day do not stop there. Spending several hours in a safe, well suited pasture allow the horses to mentally decompress in ways that living in a stall simply cannot. For one thing, several university studies have demonstrated that horses at rest in stalls register a higher pulse and breathing rate than those in pasture. Obviously, this unfortunate physiological effect can effect any sort of rehabilitation or recovery that the horses needs, as well as placed in increase risk of colic on the horse. Another demonstrated adverse effect of long hours spent in stall is joint deterioration. Related to the lack of movement, blood circulation through the entire horse diminishes, and most noticeably to the joints, often where it is needed most. The result, of course, is joint effusion, stiffness, and sometimes, even slight lameness. Lastly, and perhaps most interesting, studies regularly reported by the Equine Research Foundation in Aptos California, indicate that the learning rate of horses on tasks such as object categorization, discrimination learning, and knowledge generalization is lower for horses who reside in stalls as oppose to horses who either get daily turnout of six or more hours, or live in a pasture setting.
For all of the reasons stated above, when perusing the many horse boarding facilities, or stables it is for the benefit of the horse to find a facility with safe and adequate turnout. At our small private horse boarding stable, each horse enjoys a daily turnout of seven to ten hours or more, and most in a pasture an acre in size, or larger.
Article Submitted by: Claire Dorotik
Thoughts on Free Choice Hay:
Submitted by Juliet M. Getty... on Mon, 05/20/2013 - 6:43pm
All horses, regardless of their weight condition, should have forage at all times. Your horse’s digestive tract is designed to have forage moving through it consistently. Horses allowed to graze freely, will self-regulate their intake and eat only what they need to maintain condition.
If forage is restricted, the horse is likely to stay overweight, simply because it triggers a hormonal response that tells the horse to hold on to body fat -- the horse perceives this as “survival mode.”
Equine nutritionist Juliet Getty is a strong advocate for natural, free-choice feeding of horses. A common concern is that the horse will become overweight. Juliet addresses this concern in this ask-the-expert article.
Furthermore, an empty stomach is painful because the horse’s stomach secretes acid all the time, even when empty. The upper portion of the stomach does not have a protective mucus layer, making it vulnerable to acid erosion. Chewing produces saliva, a natural antacid, which protects your horse against ulcers.
Self-regulation takes time. A horse that is not accustomed to having hay offered free-choice will at first overeat. But once he gets the message that there is always hay available – that he can walk away and the hay is still there when he returns – then and only then, will he slow down his eating.
This adjustment usually takes about a week or two, but some horses take longer.
Important points regarding feeding hay free-choice: Know the sugar, starch, and caloric level of your hay. The only way to do this is to have it analyzed. Make sure your lab offers results that relate to horses, not cattle. Equi-Analytical Labs is a good choice.
Consider a slow-feeder. Slow feeders force the horse to work harder to get a bite of hay, thereby reducing consumption. These feeders are worthwhile as long as they are not a source of frustration.
Frustration can lead to excessive cortisol (stress hormone) production. When cortisol is raised, insulin is raised, leading to obesity and may produce a laminitis attack.
Exercise! Exercise does three things: burns calories, increases metabolic rate, and decreases insulin resistance. Encourage your horse to move around by offering hay in a variety of places. If you cannot exercise him regularly, walk him – even 10 minutes of hand walking per day will make a remarkable difference.
Offer insulin-lowering supplements. These include magnesium (plus chromium) as well as a source of omega 3 fatty acids (such as ground flaxseeds or chia seeds).
Horses fed free-choice forage will generally develop a “hay belly.” This is not fat – it’s gas! And it is normal. Walking around and more movement in general, will help.
Watch for the “magic moment.” That’s when your horse walks away from the hay, knowing that it is always available when he returns. He’ll start to eat less and, combined with extra movement, you will see a trimmer horse
How to Keep Horses Sane when on Stall Rest
Mar 1, 2015 Tags Equine Health
- https://www.equisearch.com/how-to/horses-sane-stall-rest-27616
Credit: Thinkstock If possible, give your "stalled" horse a location where he can see things going on to help avoid boredom.
Stall rest is a necessary evil. Horses are not great at self-protection. They aren't even good at self-protection. The tendon may be healing nicely during the summer months when everyone is too hot to do more than mosey to the next patch of grass. But when a nice cool autumn afternoon arrives, off they go; galloping, cart wheeling, bucking and kicking. Unfortunately the tendon isn't ready for more than a gentle walk and you are back to the beginning. Optimum healing requires controlled exercise to minimize re-injury. To get your horse back to work, you are often facing a combination of stall rest and hand walking. The following suggestions may help you both survive.
Natural lighting and fresh air makes us all feel better. Stalls come in many shapes and sizes. In general, stall rest means limited movement or no trotting. It will be important to know the exact limitations required for your horse. If he is wearing a cast, movement is discouraged. For most conditions, walking would be acceptable and the stall rest is designed to keep them at a quieter pace. Consider outdoor stalls or pens the size of stalls. Can you add windows to an indoor stall? Can your horse have a stall near a low traffic door instead of the back corner of the barn? Near the wash stalls or farrier area so there is always something to watch? Keep in mind your horse's needs. Some need more activity while others prefer some down time. If traffic means all the horses pass by on their way outside while leaving your horse behind, that might be more damaging to your horses morale than helpful.
Misery loves company. Visitors are allowed. Can another horse stay inside as well? If need be, the companion horse can be a different one each day. No other horses? How about a pet? Horses can do well with a friend, like chickens and goats to share the stall. People work as pets, too. Can the other people in the barn stop by and say hi as often as possible? Is there a girl scout troop that wants to get their horsemanship badge by practicing grooming your horse? Or a 4-H group that can practice taking vital signs using the “patient”?
Fly feeding frenzy. Bugs like barns. Without a nice breeze or a companion's tail, they can be more bothersome than usual. Add boredom to that and they can quickly drive your patient crazy. Fans, fly sheets and repellants can help minimize the annoyance.
Boredom busters. Many horses learn new skills by entertaining themselves. You might want to pick the skills versus having your horse learn to untie your shoelaces. Think like a zoo; while your horse may not find fish frozen in ice cubes a delicious snacks, is there a way to make him work for his treat? Toys to pick on can be another way to relieve frustrations. Stuffed animals, playground balls and traffic cones can work, along with official horse toys. Music and unbreakable mirrors can also be soothing to some horses.
Better living through chemistry. There are drugs available to help calm anxious horses. Some of the anti-anxiety drugs have the opposite effects in a subpopulation of horses, so check with your veterinarian on all medications. Reserpine is a human drug that is often used for horse sedation; the main side effect is diarrhea, but it isn't common. There are other products that are reported to help (B vitamins, magnesium sulfate, herbal combinations) and may be worth evaluating. Check with your veterinarian first, particularly if your horse is on other medications as they can interact and almost all are dangerous if overdosed.
Stall rest not stall restricted. If your horse doesn't have a fracture or isn't wearing a cast, ask about hand walking. Horses can often be hand walked or hand grazed. If he is acting up or is too dangerous, consider having someone else walk him or walk with a buddy. Have a friend walk a calm horse with you to show him how it is done. If he is doing well, others may be able to take him out additional times. Is there a mom that would be happy to stand with him during a kid's lesson or maybe he can even stand in the middle of the arena with the instructor? As you get further into rehabilitation, you may even be able to pony him or ride him at a walk. Riding your calm, stable older horse while leading your resting horse means all three of you can go on a trail ride.
Watch the diet. Don't forget to adjust the diet based upon the change in activity. Your horse probably doesn't need many calories to maintain his weight while on stall rest. If he needs to gain weight, try to limit carbohydrates. They add energy and will likely increase the restlessness. Try to use fat calories. These allow horses to gain weight more readily and tend to have a calming effect. Furthermore, eating is a good activity. Use lower energy grass hay as the primary staple of the diet and try to ensure he has some in front of him at all times. Hay nets can help make it a little more effort and can slow down the process. Don't forget to use a ration balancer to ensure he is getting the vitamins and minerals he needs for proper healing.
Worth waiting for. Keep him on a schedule as much as possible and keep his routine as close to normal as possible. Did you usually groom him in the crossties prior to a ride? No need to change that part, he can still be groomed there. Regular activities help the time pass faster.
Kill two birds with one stone. Is there ground training you have been wanting to do but haven't had time? How about getting him used to driving reins or other obstacles? Maybe now is the time to teach him to ground tie? These are good challenges for his mind, and will result in a new skill(s).
Ready to limbo? While stall rest can help injured tissues heal, it can stress other tissues. Muscles and joints get stiff, especially in older horses with arthritis. Massage can help keep the joints limber and it feels good. Have your vet show you some stretching exercises to maintain joint range of motion and mobility. You do need to ensure that all exercises are safe concerning your horse's injury. With some regular work, he may be more limber when you finish the recovery than when he started. While you are at it, ask for extra bedding. The extra cushion can really help when standing around all day and make laying down much more comfortable.
Consider a rehabilitation farm. One way to make sure your horse isn't the only one on stall rest is to board at a rehabilitation facility. These barns are used to the restrictions, and there is usually a lot of company inside. Sometimes the new environment helps make the transition easier. Plus, the staff will be better able to withstand the sad looks from the horse and can better follow the veterinarian's instructions.
Still frustrated? a middle ground that is safer for your horse than strict stall rest or total turnout. Don't forget to monitor his health. Changes in activity make a horse more prone to colic and stall rest can make them more prone to stomach ulcers. Be sure to monitor his manure, appetite and attitude closely and consider a stomach protectant. Watch the barn ventilation as well; make sure the bedding is cleaned frequently and good airflow exists to minimize the risk of respiratory irritants. Don't forget to take care of yourself; ask a friend to assist you or hire a competent person to give you a break from the caretaker role!
Transitioning out. When the stall rest is over, try to minimize any risk of re-injury on turnout. Your horse has lost some condition, is likely to be overexcited and may need to reassert his role in the herd. Consider not feeding the horses until they are outside, this will give them something else to think about. Turn out with one or two buddies vs. the whole herd or perhaps sedate the horse at first (acepromazine can work well to help mellow out the return the first few days). Turn out during the heat of the day when everyone moves a little slower and supervise turnout. Finally, make sure to start with just a few hours. You can pull the horse back in if it is too exciting and don't turn out into a lush pasture due to the risk of laminitis. Start small; the arena or small paddock may be better than the back 40 acres. Avoid round pens or paddocks with rounded corners as they tend to encourage running in circles which is hard on a healthy body, much less one that is out of shape. Corners tend to make a horse stop.
Rebuild slowly. Don't forget he has lost muscle tone and can't do as much as he used to right away. Keep up your stretching exercises and avoid repetition until he has his strength back. Unless you are working with a specialized rehabilitation program (i.e. aqua-treadmill) or found a way to keep his muscles toned during the layup, plan on at least three months of gradual return to work, longer if he was stall rested for more than three weeks. Rechecking radiographs and ultrasound are often useful to ensure you are moving as fast as possible without causing re-injury. With patience, time and attention to details, you will give your best friend the best chance of coming back as good as new!
This article was written by Erin Malone, DVM, University of Minnesota.
Taking Vital Signs for Horses
https://www.smartpakequine.com/content/video/equine-vital-signs-video
Being able to take equine vital signs is an important part of being a horse owner -- taking a horse's temperature, and checking a horse's pulse (heart rate) and respiration rate are just some of the things you should be able to know how to do. Watch SmartPak's Staff Veterinarian, Dr. Lydia Gray, demonstrate how to check all of these and more, so that you can get to know your horse — inside and out!
Video how to take vital signs
youtu.be/aTSrlqNP2mY
DR LYDIA GRAY: Hi, my name is Dr. Lydia Gray, and I'm the Staff Veterinarian here at SmartPak. Today, we're going to talk about equine vital signs: what's normal, what's normal for your horse, and how and where to take them.
First, when we talk about equine vital signs, we have to be clear what we are talking about. And that's temperature, pulse, and respiration, or TPR. Most veterinary textbooks have established a baseline or reference range for these three values. And they are: temperature, 99.5 to 100.5 degrees Fahrenheit, for pulse it's 28 to 42 beats per minute, and for respiration, it's 8 to 16 breaths per minute. Now, these numbers normally fluctuate based on the time of day. They can also be on the high end of the range or slightly above it if, say, your horse has just come off a workout. If your horse is really fit, these values can be on the low end. And again, there are reasons for these numbers to be abnormal, such as if your horse is experiencing pain, distress, colic, laminitis, or even an infection.
That's why it's really important to establish these normal baselines for your horse. I remember when I first got my horse, I took his temperature and he was 101. And I panicked. And then I took his temperature everyday, and it was 101 for two weeks straight. And that's when I began to realize, "oh, he just runs a little hot." So now that I know that and have documented it in his journal, which I encourage you to do, it's fine, there is no need to panic, that's just his normal. And when he is 102, then I know something is really cooking in there.
To get comfortable taking vital signs, you just have to practice on your own horse and on anyone's horse that will let you. So let's start with temperature. You have a couple options. You can use the old-fashioned glass thermometer. And as you can see, I've put a string and a clip on the loop that it comes with. This is to attach to the tail hairs of your horse, so that when you insert the thermometer, it takes 2 to 3 minutes to cook, so to speak, so you can walk around and do other things and then come back, and it won't be pushed out onto the ground. There's no concern that it's going to sucked in. That's another myth that I'm going to bust today. It also comes with a handy case. Your other option is the digital thermometer. This only takes less than a minute as long as your batteries are good. You do have to hold it, because there's nothing to attach it to the horse, so it could get easily pushed out.
The next vital sign is the pulse. Ideally, you would have a stethoscope, and you would listen to the horse's heart rate, right behind the elbow. It comes in two sounds: lub dub. And you would only count the "lub." If you don't have a stethoscope, no need to panic. You can take the horse's pulse at the facial artery, which is right underneath the jaw, or you can take the digital pulse, which is from the digital arteries, alongside the fetlocks or ankles. Those are a bit trickier, but good techniques to know.
And finally, respiratory rate. It sounds simple, but it can be the trickiest of the three, because they breathe so infrequently. And sometimes they'll breathe in and breathe out, and breathe in and breathe out, and then not breathe for a little bit, and you're like "did I miss it? What's going on"? So, you can watch at the flank, for the rise and fall there of the belly. You can watch at the nostrils for the in and out there. You can even use your stethoscope, which you've just purchased, to listen to the inhales and exhales along your horse's trachea. For both of these, for the heart rate and the respiratory rate, I listen for fifteen seconds and then I multiply by four, and that gives me my value in per minute measurements. So, you can listen for any length of time you want, just make sure that your math is correct. For those horses that are super-fit, you might want to watch them or listen to them breathe longer than fifteen seconds, because the numbers will be so low. It's more accurate if you listen for twenty seconds, thirty seconds, even a minute if you have time.
Other vital signs that you might be interested in having your veterinarian show you how to take or check are the color of the gums (a pink, a dark pink, a red or purple, which is bad), the moistness of the gums (are they tacky, are they dry, or are they correctly moist?), the capillary refill time (often abbreviated CRT), the gut sounds, digestive sounds, and then the digital pulse, as we mentioned earlier.
I hope this has been helpful to you. Knowing how to take vital signs is really important for the horse owner, and the only way to get good is to practice, practice, practice.